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June 1, 2009
My last full day on a long weekend in Rome. I stood in a chaotic line on blistered feet in a downpour in St Peters’ Square. When it reached the Basilica, it split into four distinct, but unlabelled lines. The usual line jumpers tried to muscle in, but a little old Japanese lady was having none of it.

I got the tombs of the Popes, a shuffle in a dripping poncho in a cavernous necropolis, including the tomb of St. Peter.

I went to see where Julius Caesar was cremated the previous day; there were bouquets of fresh flowers there.